Mr Sigalas, your winery is situated in one of the oldest vineyards in Europe. What varieties have been preserved till now and which ones continue to be cultivated throughout the centuries?
Both
Sigalas Winery but also the others in Santorini cultivate local varieties that were only found here until recent past. From the white varieties “Asyrtiko” is the dominant one, constituting the 70% of this vineyard. It’s absolutely synonymous to the island of Santorini and enjoys a great fame abroad. Other varieties are the “Aidani” that was used in the past in the Vinsanto production so as to give certain flavours, the “Athyri” and some others, not so known.
As far as the red varieties as concerned, “Mavrotragano” has been produced for centuries, as well as “Mandilaria” which is also met in Rhodes, Paros and Crete with similar names.
“Asyrtiko” is a super dynamic variety, meaning it can give different wine styles. Santorini Wineries, including ours, produce Vinsanto, the white in a tank, white in a barrel and in general, we kind of “play” with aging and winemaking. The “Nychteri” is another type of traditional wine, coming from “Asyrtiko”. In the past, Santorinians used to produce the two varieties of Vinsanto and Assyrtiko, but nowdays we do have better technology and knowledge to make wines that are closer to the modern consumers’ taste.
Sigalas Winery was established back in 1991. Since then there has been a huge worldwide recognition of Santorini wine. In fact, your winery has received many awards and discriminations over the years, which means that there has been an excessively elevated demand in global markets. So, let me ask, which are the countries of export and how do you face the problem of excessive demand?
The recognition of Assyrtiko has risen aggressively during the last decade. This has to do with the island of Santorini itself, as a top tourist destination, but also with the specific vineyard that has characteristics of World Heritage. Not to mention the “terroir”, the soil as we say it, and the climate, that give high quality wine with unique character and flavor.
All these, along with the local producers’ effort to exhaust the potential of this soil, but also the serious political marketing abroad led to this impressive result. Let me tell you about Justin Robbinson, the guru of wine tasting assessment in England, when asked in an interview about the variety she considers as great, she answered “Assyrtiko”!
Nevertheless, there are issues to be solved. For instance, we miss in research, cultivation methods, in finding the best clones etc. as other foreign vineyards of the world have already done and now produce high quality wines, tremendously famous and at high prices. We still haven’t managed to sell the Assyrtiko at the best price. It’s not easy to do, it takes time and money. However, Assyrtiko creates the conditions to reach the point where one will buy it knowing it’s special, with unique character and high quality. And then he will be willing to pay for it as he does for a good Burgundy, a good Barolo, and a good Riesling. I personally think that this will happen soon and it will give other dynamic in the vineyard.
Which are the exporting countries at the moment?
There are many. We export in United States, Canada, Australia, Brazil, and China. We also sell in several European countries, including Romania. The global markets are really interested in the variety of Asyrtiko right now. There’s a rise of exports taking place to the Greek wineries and has to do with the fact that a good name over our wine is gradually built. Three or four years ago, working with wineries from all over Greece, we created a strategic plan for the Greek wine, paying money to a special company so that it would do research, create a logo and a common slogan. New Wine of Greece… that was the result of discussions and sometimes conflicts, because some vineyards felt a little bit “out” in the decision about which wines will be the “ambassadors” in the global markets. In this project of Greek wine, the Assyrtiko and the island of Santorini in general, have a major role, as one of the four varieties that represent us. The other three include the “Agiorgitiko” of Nemea, the “Moschofilero” of Mantinea and the “Xinomavro” of Naoussa. Four varieties, all coming from a different Greek location. This strategic plan gives our sector maturity. Not only was the Greek wine upgrated, but we also pointed out the existence of different vineyards that give different types of wine, all however, of great quality.
The last few years there’s talk in Santorini, both by producers and wine lovers, that the vineyard has shrunk, saying there has been a significant contraction of the acres. Why is this happening and how can be treated?
I do not think this is happening, at least the last years. There was a high dropout rate till a decade ago. Especially after World War II there was a growing abandonment rate because of the lost markets. There was no price for the grapes, no high quality wine demand. Young people identified wine, that was once the main feeder of the economic life of the island, with poverty. Obviously the tourism played its role, as the ground leftover was transformed into concrete buildings. Except for tourism, this shrink also happened because of the Santorinians’ way of thinking. They would produce wine as a tradition and not to make money out of it. So, we shouldn’t assume that there was a development and we did make good wine, but then the tourism came and we stopped as the income was much more powerful. It makes sense for someone to turn on the vine because of the income, after the fame that Greek wines have gained worldwide. It’s the first time a young man could have sufficient income from working in vineyard, because Santorini wine is sold and pretty much exhausted, which also explains the price of the grapes, that reached 2 euros this year! This is a powerful motivation and may even provide comparable income to that of a tourism business. It might be better to turn the space you own into a vineyard, instead of building a complex of rooms to let.
This is how the vines reenters the economic life of the island. And it’s so important, because when a society is based only in tourism, then life is two dimensional instead of three-dimensional. The society and its structures are lost, as the essence of life. It’s wrong to think of tourism as an enemy of vine and I would dare to say the opposite. These two are harmonically connected. The wine exported abroad creates a good name of the island, making the foreigners want to come here and taste it.
Another reason for the vineyard shrinkage is that it was not legally protected. Anyone could build in four acres. When a building is constructed, the around area changes, as well as the microclimate. If we want to get into the elite global markets, we have to be careful. Imagine the trader’s opinion during a visit, meeting vineyards and houses all together.. what a third world status. It’s all about the location. Not the acres they take, but the point they are built. If we had a spatial saying that this zone is for vineyards or other cultivation proposes and the other for a tourist village for example, we wouldn’t face the fact of tourism expansion at the expense of agricultural production. Our negligence, and I mean both the state and the local leaders, is against vineyards and wine production, and everyone should realize that.
Life, you know, makes circles. Santorini’s basic income during the previous century was coming from wine production. It was monoculture and the product had to be sold, to travel. So a merchant fleet was actually developed for that reason. This fleet became independent and we have Santorinians live in other areas, such as Alexandria, Danubian regions etc., also working on other fields. They would gain money, combining the two productions and at the same time they would return money on wine making, always keeping that as field of working and making income. Now again we do have that thing, the wine and tourism.
What about the Greek wine lovers? Where can they find the labels of Sigalas winery in the Greek market?
Fortunately, we have a good distribution. I think we are all over the country, elsewhere more, and elsewhere less. But in general, one can find our labels in central cellars and many good restaurants.
Do you give to super market chains?
There is a collaboration with AB Vassilopoulos and Sklavenitis. But there are other “things played” here, that have to do with price control. I am sure, however, that this will come to a solution soon. We will be asked to have a direct cooperation soon…
Which is the initial price and what about the final, when one label of yours reaches the Greek consumer?
There are “cheap” wines like “Crisis” and “Ean” that reach the market selves at 6-6,5 euros and 8 euros respectively. The first one is a blend of Mantilaria and Agiorgitiko, while the second one is rosé. Beyond those, we have wine labels with higher prices. Nychteri is sold 36 euros for instance. There is a wide variety of prices for different tastes and budgets.
How many bottles did Sigalas Winery produce the past year?
About 300.000 bottles.
Is it the biggest number of production ever?
No. We stand firm at this number for years now, but we are sadly deficient, we still have a problem on covering the demands.
Is there a wine “bag” produced by Sigalas winery?
No. We eliminated consciously. I believe Santorini shouldn’t produce wine in a bag. The goal has to be high quality and high standards of wine identity, so it is against our image. Last year, our winery took the permission for a distillery and for the first time we leave marc with more wine and raki making. It is already released in Athens, but it’s a little bit expensive, so you won’t find it in all taverns. You will find it at some really good restaurants and wine bars, and of course in big central cellars.